Bassins à flot — a dynamic eco-district with an industrial past
Just north of the Chartrons district lies Bordeaux’s hippest new neighbourhood — A revitalised maritime and industrial area, now a buzzing cultural and residential eco-district, with more exciting development plans still in store. The juxtaposition of the industrial buildings with the contemporary architecture gives the place its vibrant atmosphere.
The area surrounds two rather large inland water basins fed by the Garonne river. The transformation from a largely abandoned site began with completion of the quays, the extension of the tram system and the opening of the vertical-lift bridge (Pont Jacques Chaban-Delmas) in 2013. Since then, a large number of apartment and mixed-use complexes have sprung up, as well as Bordeaux’s latest landmark La Cité du Vin on Quai de Bacalan which opened its doors in June 2016.
La Cité du Vin
A cultural and tourist centre dedicated to the universal living cultural heritage of wine. The building’s bold architecture, resembling wine swirling in a glass, is placed by the river Garonne is Bordeaux’s newest landmark. Evoking the river, the façade shimmers in the sunlight. Whether you are a fan of the design or not, it’s a fascinating building and its observation platform and rooftop bar offers fantastic views of Bordeaux, as does the restaurant on the 7th floor called “Le 7”.
Base sous-marine
The water basins’ main feature is a submarine base constructed by the German occupying forces between 1941-1943. The bunker’s statistics are sobering — 245 metres long, 162 metres wide, 19 metres high and with a roof that is an almost indestructible 9.20 metres thick. An amazing 600,000 cubic metres of concrete went into building it. The hard labour was done by up to 6,000 workers, mainly Spanish and Portuguese prisoners of war who worked under terrible conditions; many died and today there is a memorial to those who lost their lives. With a heavy and haunting atmosphere, it is now used as a cultural centre with a multidisciplinary program hosting temporary exhibitions, concerts, theatre and dance performances. It’s not open to the public unless an event is on, so check before you go.
Garage moderne
Le Garage Moderne, on Rue des Étrangers, is a non-profit association that’s an unusual combination of working garage for cars and motorbikes as well as an exhibition space and party venue. Its offices are housed into two vintage buses. It holds many very popular cultural events, softening the rather stark ambience with fairy lights and candles.
Les vivres de l’Art
An art centre in a building complex of 18th century, UNESCO listed historic buildings: “Les Magasins aux Vivres de la Marine” a marine food storage facility on Rue Achard, and two former slaughterhouses on Place Victor Raulin.
Run by artist Jean-François Buisson, they arrange various multidisciplinary events and exhibitions. Between the buildings is a sculpture garden and in the back of the property are artist studios. The buildings have been respectfully rehabilitated, with some playful elements added and the gallery is a stunning space. It’s well worth a visit.
Photos by juseliushausammann.com.