With such a fabulous coastline and its many rivers, it’s no surprise that fish and seafood are found in markets and on the menus of restaurants throughout the French Atlantic coast region.

Look out for dos de cabillaud (cod), colin (hake), dorade royale (sea bream), sole, turbot, plie (plaice), raie (skate), bar (sea bass; also known as loubine in the Vendée), maigre (a sea fish with white flesh also known as shadefish or in the USA, drumfish), gardon (roach), brème (bream), ablette (bleak, a small freshwater fish), as well as sardines. The Sablaise sardine has a bluegreen back and silver belly, and is best enjoyed fresh, grilled or in oil. From the river are carpes (carp), pike, sander (pikeperch) and barbeaux (barbel, a type of freshwater fish).

In restaurants fish (especially pikeperch) is often served with beurre blanc, the signature sauce of the Vendée, made with local butter. Another local speciality that’s definitely worth eating if it’s on the menu is hake with wild mushrooms (colin aux cèpes sauvage).

Other seafood is locally-caught prawns, crayfish and crab as well as scallops (coquilles St Jacques). Order a fruit de mer, a plate of shellfish served on a bed of ice, and what is served will depend on the season and where you are but will often include locally caught langoustines, clams (palourdes), sea snails (escargots de mer), whelks (bulots), winkles (bigorneaux), cockles (coques) and sometimes razor clams (palourdes de rasoir). Occasionally, you may also find sea urchins (see below).

If you’re near the Marais Poitevin then you’re likely to find eel (anguille) on the menu. It is most often grilled whole with just a dash of vinegar; other dishes include fricassée d’anguilles, where the eel is rubbed in ash, skinned and gutted and then fried. Or it is cooked in a stew.