The plump Marennes-Oléron oyster (huître) is considered among the best in the world. Grown in the protected salt flats along the Atlantic coast, they have a distinctive taste that is more delicate than those oysters raised in the open sea.

Stretching from the Charente River estuary, west to Ile d’Oléron and south to Marennes, this area of the Poitou-Charentes Atlantic coast is the largest oyster cultivation area in all of Europe, producing 50,000 tonnes each year.

Oysters from here were imported at great cost to the tables of the nobility as far back as Roman times, but it was in the 19th century, when the salt industry declined and the salt pans became vacant, that the industry became well-established.

Converted into oyster growing basins, it is these former salt pans – called claires – that create the unique environment that makes the Marennes- Oléron oyster special. Here, water is filled and emptied by the tidal waters, bringing in fresh water to rid the growing oyster of impurities. As the claire is shallow, sunlight penetrates to the bottom, encouraging the growth of algae on which the oysters feed. Oysters grown in claires are not only bigger, they have a better capacity for retaining water and therefore are juicier and conserve well after harvesting.

Marennes oysters can be eaten throughout the year but those with the Label Rouge label are only sold between October to May.

They are easy to find throughout the Poitou-Charentes – they are at markets and supermarkets all over the region, and on many a restaurant menu. Enjoy!

Know your oysters

Fine de Claire
A less fleshy but juicy oyster with a mild flavour. These are the least expensive.

Fine de Claire Verte
Awarded the Label Rouge, the production of these oysters is tightly controlled and must meet certain criteria – uniform in shape with a good amount of flesh, and with a flavour that is first salty, then sweet. Their distinct green colour comes from the blue algae on which they feed, the blue combining with the yellow of the oysters’ gills. They must be served and eaten within ten days of coming out of the water. They come with a premium price tag.

Speciale de Claire
A fleshier, meatier oyster than the Fine de Claire, and with a pronounced flavour that is more sweet than salty.

Pousse en Claire
Also Red Label, it is the crème de la crème of oysters. Meaty and firm, with a sweet taste that lingers on the palate. These are the most expensive and usually bought for special occasions.

Keeping your oysters

Place them in the lower shelf of the refrigerator, with the hollower raised part of the shell facing downwards. Do not keep them for more than a week. When serving, make sure the oysters retain their water in the opened shells. Don’t add ice – the ideal temperature is between 5°C and 15°C.

Eat them with pain de seigle (rye bread) and semi-salted butter, drizzled with shallot vinegar and a glass – or two! – of chilled white wine, either a cépage colombard or vin de pays charentais.