The best butter in France comes from the area around the small village of Échiré in the Charente-Maritime. The butter can only be made from milk collected from within 19 miles of Échiré. It has an AOC label and its flavour has been described as being a combination of the slight sourness of creme fraiche and the sweet wholesomeness of fresh cream. One of the reasons for the butter’s distinct flavour is said to be the grass that the cows eat as the soil of this small area is geologically different to that of its surrounds.

Just over 60 dairy farms provide the milk that makes Échiré butter and the milk is sent to the Société de Laiterie Coopérative d’Échiré. It was set up in 1894 and the methods used to make butter today are those used back then – the milk is skimmed within two hours of its arrival, and is then pasteurised at a low temperature. The resulting pasteurised cream is then left to ripen (or culture) for 16-18 hours. It is then churned in teak barrels and washed with local spring water.

It’s best eaten fresh, rather than to cook with as high temperatures break down the flavour.