
The beautiful island of Ile de Ré
If there is one thing associated with the l’Ile de Ré it has to be its sandy beaches. In fact the gently sloping beaches are so good that this island was used to film some of the scenes for the classic war film The Longest Day, about the D-Day landings in June 1944. But don’t worry; apart from some derelict German bunkers, little remains of the Second World War nowadays. Instead this is an island devoted to a more peaceful life with long sandy beaches, lovely villages with their trademark hollyhocks and as well as good food, wine and things to see and do. Learn more about wine from Charente-Maritime here.
Situated close to La Rochelle – which itself has a fast TGV train service to Paris – holidays on the Ile de Ré have become very popular with Parisians and many other French holidaymakers – so much so that it has been nicknamed the French Hamptons. This Frenchness alone means that the island resort has kept its identity as an authentic French tourism destination, rather than becoming just another anonymous seaside destination – even though the ‘island’ is now connected to the mainland by a bridge (which has a toll).
The Ile de Ré, known for its sunny climate, is 30 km long and 5 km wide (about 18.6 miles by 3 miles) and even though it attracts a lot of visitors each summer, there’s plenty of room for everyone and it’s still easy to get away from it all. And the locals – the Rétois –as they are known – are noted for their hospitality and laid-back approach to life on this sun-kissed island.
Things to See and Do
The Beaches
White, sandy beaches: the best beaches for sunbathing on Ile-de-Ré are in the south where you can choose from 10km of white fine sand to lay your towel. Le-Bois-Plage-en-Ré one of the most popular and picturesque and like many of the southern beaches has a beach club for children. For quieter beaches, head for those on the southwest coast, close to Phare des Baleines (the lighthouse). In the north the beaches are rockier and shallow although this makes them great for rockpooling. The beach at Rivedoux Plage is not just very pretty, it’s also a great place to see kite surfers. You can also walk out to see the oyster beds when the tide is out. It’s on the right after you cross the bridge (on the left is the nudist section…)
Experience the scenery by bike
This holiday island is known for its villages of whitewashed houses and gardens bursting with hollyhocks – but the terrain surrounding these neat villages is wilder with wild rosemary, pine forests, and the marshes where oysters are grown and salt, known as ‘white gold’, is harvested. The island is known for its production of fleur de sel (flower of salt). The best way to see the island it to take to a bicycle – the terrain is wonderfully flat and the roads are not made for loads of cars. There are 100 km of cycle paths and plenty of places all round the island from where you can hire bicycles.
Horse-riding is also popular here. While on the water visitors are spoilt for choice with canoeing, sailing, boat trips, windsurfing, water skiing and surfing.
The towns and villages
Ile de Ré has ten towns or villages – St Martin-de-Ré, plus Ste Marie-de-Re, Ars-en-Ré, La Couarde-sur-Mer, La Flotte, Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré, Les Portes-en-Ré, Loix, Rivedoux-Plage and St Clément-des-Baleines. Ars-en-Ré and La Flotte have been given the official accolade of being two of the 151 most beautiful villages in France.
Saint Martin-de-Ré
A lively bustling place set around a harbour filled with brightly coloured boats. Do a spot of shopping in one of the many chic boutiques or have a drink or meal at the plentiful cafés and restaurants. It is here than children can ride on the island’s famous ‘donkeys in pants’ – traditionally the animals’ legs were covered in trousers to protect them from the mosquitoes when they were working in the salt marshes. The fortifications of Saint Martin built by the acclaimed French military engineer Vauban in the second half of the 17th century can still be seen. The citadel is now a prison but it’s worth walking along the walls.
Ars-en Ré
The pretty port village of Ars-en Ré with its winding streets, white houses and hollyhocks. is quintessentially Ile de Ré. It is famous for Saint-Étienne church, whose black and white painted bell tower is a beacon for passing ships. During the summer, you can climb to the top of the church for a view of the surrounding forest and oyster beds. Eat at La Commerce – good food and great people-watching!
La Flotte-en-Ré
On the northern coast of Ile de Ré is La Flotte-en-Ré. This attractive port village boasts two impressive fortifications. Fort de la Prée, built in 1626, is the oldest on the island and played a major role in the battle against the English. L’Abbaye des Chateliers was built by Cistercian monks in the 12th century. Pillaged and set on fire, today it’s been restored and has a haunting mood. Great fun for children are the guided tours and treasure hunts that allow them to explore the village the seashore. Sign up at La Maison du Platin.
Phare des Baleines Lighthouse
On the western tip of Ile de Ré at Saint-Clement des Baleines this lighthouse been seen from miles around. The second oldest lighthouse in France, it was built in the 1855 and stand stands 55m high. More about the Phare des Baleines.
Noah’s Ark
If you’ve got children, then head here. The Parc de l’Arche de Noé has many different birds and animals including Amazonian parrots flying freely, flamingos and monkeys plus an aquarium, botanical garden and butterfly and insect museum. Route du Phare, St Clement des Baleines; Tel: +33 5 46 29 23 23.
Where to Stay
As one might expect for such a holiday resort, there is plenty of choice from upmarket hotels, mid-market hotels and budget hotels, to bed and breakfasts, gîtes, holiday villages and camping sites. See options on TripAdvisor.
Travel: Ile de Ré is connected by a 3 km toll bridge from La Rochelle. The airport at La Rochelle is a short drive from the centre of town. The TGV from Paris takes just under three hours.
Photo 1 by dynamosquito / CC BY 2.0 image cropped; Photo 3 by Claude Fabry / CC BY 2.0 image cropped; Photo 4 by Evilspoon7 / CC BY 2.0 image cropped