Back in the 19th century the painter Auguste Renoir wrote about Île de Noirmoutier, ‘It is an admirable place, lovely as the South, but the sea is beautiful in a different way.’ And it is true. Here, instead of the endless turquoise sea of the Med, it is the ever-changing Atlantic ocean with a colour spectrum that ranges from a watery blue through to deep cyan, pale grey to stormy charcoal.

Île de Noirmoutier is connected to the mainland by a modern day bridge as well as a causeway that is still in use, and the mood still harks back to a quieter time (although this does rather vanish during a high season traffic jam!). Travel round the island and you pass villages of whitewashed houses with red terracotta tiles, blue shutters and swaying hollyhocks; salt pans where the drying salt glitters in the sunlight and canals that are now home to a huge variety of bird life; towering pine trees that are a distinctive symbol of the French Atlantic coast, as well as forests of oaks and mimosa trees which, thanks to the mild climate – the island is known for its micro-climate that makes it warmer by the coast – burst into a profusion of bright yellow in the earliest weeks of February when the trees flower.

What to See and Do

Cross the causeway: called Passage du Gois, until 1971 this 4.5 km causeway was the only way to reach the Île de Noirmoutier, and only accessible in low tide. Today, although the easiest access is by the modern bridge, a drive across this causeway is an experience – although not during the day at high season when traffic jams make it pretty miserable (and scary if the tide starts to rise). Along the way are platforms, provided to give a safe place to stay for those caught by the rising waters. Tide-tables are available from the tourist offices, are published in the local papers and are also on huge panels by the causeway – do check them before you set off and leave yourself plenty of time. Flashing lights mark when the tide is starting to rise.

Take in the capital

The port town of Noirmoutier is the capital of the island and is a lovely place to walk around, from the port with its shops and bustling restaurants to the Banzeau district that’s picture-postcard pretty with narrow lanes flanked by whitewashed fishermen’s houses. For great views, head to the château in the centre of town. It dates back to the 14th century when it was owned by England’s King Edward III and then by his son the Black Prince, and has seen turbulent times from the early days of conquering battles to the end of the Second World War when it was a place of interment for German prisoners. It’s now a museum containing an eclectic mix of exhibits covering local history, pottery and the sea. It is worth spending time in – but the piece de resistance is the view of the island from the outdoor walkway that can be reached from the top floor.

Head to the beach

Île de Noirmoutier is only about a dozen or so kilometres long but it boasts enough beaches that you could visit a different one every day for a month. Long and sandy, and framed by sand dunes and dusky pink of tamarisks, many are family-friendly. One of the most charming is Plages des Dames – a cove with a long stretch of sand, it is backed by Bois de la Chaize (also known as Bois de la Chaise) a forest of oak, mimosa, eucalypt and pine. It also has beach huts, a lighthouse and jetty.

Go for a walk

Plage des Dames is the starting point for a lovely walk called Promenade des Souzeaux. About 45 minutes to an hour long, it takes you through pine trees and along creeks, then climbing until you reach the clifftop path that gives you fabulous views of the sea and lighthouse as well as the mainland. It does climb so you will need a good shoes and a little stamina. To find the walk, leave the beach via the footpath to the left of the small jetty, then follow the track to the left.

Eat at a Michelin-star restaurant

La Marine restaurant, with chef Alexandre Couillon, has turned the busy little fishing port of L’Herbaudier into the place to go for a fabulous meal.

Admire the butterflies

L’Île aux Papillons is a small butterfly house but gives good value – walk through the gardens and see 1500 butterflies of 60 species from all over the world; if you’re lucky one may even land on you. It’s great for children. It’s in the centre of an industrial estate so best to take the car.

See the salt being harvested

There are about a 100 salt-makers on the island and it is possible to pay the Marais Salant during the summer months to see them harvest the salt. Mid-June to early September; see the tourist office for details.

Photo 2 and Photo 3 by William Chevillon / CC BY 2.0 image cropped; Photo 4 and Photo 5 by A ADAM / CC BY 2.0 image cropped; Photo 7 by Thomas McGowan / CC BY 2.0 image cropped