A historic maritime route – after Henry II’s accession to the English throne, the estuary became the maritime access route between Aquitaine, in particular Bordeaux, and England, and remained so for 300 years.

The Gironde Estuary, formed where the rivers Dordogne and Garonne meet, is 75km long and with a total surface area of 635km is the largest estuary of its kind in western Europe. Within the estuary are a number of islands, the most well-known being Île Paté on which is a 17th fort. It, along with two other defensive structures by Vauban including the Blaye citadel, formed the protective lock that guarded access to Bordeaux (unlike the citadel, this fort is not open to the public).

Sprinkled along the coast of the estuary are the iconic carrelets, the traditional fishing huts on stilts, with square-shaped nets that are lowered into the sea at high-tide. Most are privately owned, but owners have to be registered by the local authority. They are still used for fishing, the catch including mullets, shrimps and eels. Also in the estuary is the only species of sturgeon found naturally in Western Europe – once caught for its flesh, it’s now a protected species and only farmed for its eggs, known as Aquitaine caviar.

The estuary is at the heart of what makes this part of the world tick – one one side are the world-famous vineyards of Château Margaux and Château Lafite-Rothschild. On the other, the UNESCO-listed citadel town of Blaye and at the tip, where the estuary splits, the magnificent city of Bordeaux and the UNESCO town of Saint-Emilion.

Blaye

On the eastern side of the Gironde Estuary, Blaye (pronounced ‘Bly’) is a relaxed town that’s known for its World Heritage-listed citadel. Designed by Sebastien Vauban, then the country’s foremost engineer and military strategist, on the orders of Louis XIV, the aim of the newly fortified citadel was to protect the city of Bordeaux by blocking access further down the river – the city’s cannons did not have the range to cover its width. The citadel was one of three fortresses that formed the Vauban lock – fortifications that together fully protected the Gironde estuary; the others were built on the left bank at Cussac Fort-Medoc and in the middle of the estuary on Ile-Pate which is not open to the public.

Vauban’s design saw the existing fort rebuilt, the 38 hectares enclosing a number of existing buildings but also building new, and today the remains of both can be seen. The 12th century Château des Rudel is an unusual triangle shape and although only two towers remain you can see the bridge which led to the entrance and the foundations of the walls. Look closely at what remains of an old well – on it are grooves made by the constant rubbing of the chain. Also within the citadel are the remains of a monastery that once belonged to the Minims, a 17th century order who relied on begging and charitable donations to survive.

The 17th century square building called La Manutention was first built to be the prison for the town of Blaye and the citadel. Today it is home to exhibitions on the area. From both towers, Tour des Rondes and Tour de l’Eguilette, are excellent views of the estuary and its surrounds.

The citadel is still inhabited and during the summer is a lively place to be with festivals, cafes and craftsmen and women selling their wares.

Access to the citadel is by foot through porte Dauphine to the south or by car through Porte Royale to the east. There are guided tours, which take you through the citadel tunnels, every day. They leave from the tourist office which is found in the citadel at rue du couvent de Minimes; Tel +33 5 57 42 12 09.

At Blaye, both vehicles and those on foot can take the ferry across the four-and-a-half kilometre wide Gironde river to Lamarque in Medoc country. It sails every day, and the crossing takes about 30 minutes. The 60m long ferry can carry 40 vehicles and 300 passengers. At Blaye, it leaves from Allées Marines and docks at the port at Lamarque.

Bourg and the cave paintings in Grottes de Pair-non-Pair

This pretty little village has a great aspect – on a rocky outcrop overlooking the river, and surrounded by medieval walls. The main attraction is the cave paintings in Grottes de Pair-non-Pair. These limestone caves were discovered by chance in 1881 when a cow got its leg caught in an opening – further investigation revealed a series of caves with paintings dating back 40,000 years. They are not as impressive as those found in Lascaux – the cave is small – but unlike at Lascaux, here you can see the original images of bison, mammoths and horses (and the images are older). You do need to take a tour to see the paintings and as numbers are limited you must book in advance. The tour is in French but a leaflet in English is available. The cave is open every day except Mondays except on January 1, May 1 and December 25.

Château de Vayres

This château has a turbulent history. The donjon, entrance and (now dry) moat, date back to the 14th century when the existing castle was turned into a fortress. Over the following centuries the château switched its allegiance between the the French and English sides and was often badly damaged as a result. Read more…

Haut-Médoc

The southern side of the Gironde estuary is wine country – here you will find some of France’s finest winemakers including some of the most famous grands crus in the world – Château Margaux, Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour and Château Mouton Rothschild.

Not all grands crus are open to the general public; those that are are Château Lafite Rothschild and Château Mouton Rothschild where you can see the chateau, part of which has been converted into the Museum of Wine in Art which exhibits 17th century German gold- and silverware, medieval tapestries, paintings, porcelain and more. At Château Margaux you can stroll through the grounds only.

If you want a full-on tasting and buying experience then head to La Winery. Here you can enjoy wine by the glass while eating a select range of cured meats and cheeses, tasting sessions, discover your personal wine sign and buy from a selection of 1700 wines. It’s at Rond Point des Vendageurs, 33460, Arsac.

Photo 1 by Fabien David / CC BY 2.0 image cropped; Photo 2 and Photo 3 by Yannick Serrano