Once a chic seaside resort of beautiful Belle Époque architecture, it was flattened in January 1945 by Allied bombing. This attack appears to have been needless – according to one historian the Germans had already left the town – and caused huge damage. The town was rebuilt in modernist style in the 1950s today it is an attractive mix of the old and new, the colourful old villas nestling behind the main part of town.

It also has a fine port to wander around, lots of natural areas rich with wildlife to explore and for those who like to shop there’s plenty to do, too, from Royan’s renowned market to some upmarket stores aimed at Parisian holidaymakers. For despite its growing popularity with some foreign holidaymakers, Royan is still a place where the French like to holiday and enjoy the seaside as only the French can.

What to Do and See in Royan

The best beaches

La Grande Conche, is the largest beach, which runs for 2,650 metres, is full of beautiful, fine sand – and faces due south. What more could a beach lover ask for? Add to that some great nearby hotels and fine restaurants in Royan and you can see why La Grande Conche is so popular.

But there are other fine beaches too:

Conche du Chay at nearby Pontaillac, just to the north, which is considered to be the most relaxed and intimate beaches in the area.

Conche de Pigeonnier (conche means cove) , is another quieter beach.

Bonne Anse, north of Royan is the Bonne Anse, which not only has a beach but is also a great location to see wildlife.

A Brutalist Cathedral

Church of Notre-Dame: Built of concrete between 1952 and 1956 and replacing the original church that was destroyed during the Allied bombing, the nave is as high as Notre-Dame in Paris. Inside, the stained glass windows tell the story of Royan.

The Modernist Market Halls

The market: another striking piece of mid-century modern architecture is Royan’s covered market, a shell-shaped building that was also created during the 1950s reconstruction. Architecture aside, the market is considered one of the best in the Charente-Maritime. It is open seven days a week from 7am-1pm but it’s best to get there early– before 10am – to see it at its bustling best as locals come to buy not just fresh fruit and vegetables but also the freshest catch of the day.

The Views

Walk about town to appreciate not just the changing architectural styles but also the lovely views out to the Atlantic. One recommended route is the chemin douanier (customs walk) for a vista of sandy beaches and secluded bays as well as Belle Époque mansions. Follow the path along the shore from the port before heading up to Grande-Cote, via the towns of Vaux-sur-Mer – it has a lovely Romanesque church – and Saint-Palais-sur-Mer. You can also cycle along the coastal park that takes you through the nearby pine forest.

Out on the water

Take a boat ride out to Le Phare de Cordouan, one of France’s oldest lighthouses – and one that still has a live-in lighthouse-keeper. Ten kilometres off the coast and 67-metre high, inside it boasts a black and white marble floor. For a breath-taking view, you can climb the 300 or so steps to the top. Another notable lighthouse is the one at La Courbe.

Planet Exotica

Over seven hectares see plants and garden styles from all over the world, including a Japanese garden and an Indonesian forest plus a bamboo labyrinth and collections of orchids. Children will love the butterfly house, bamboo maze and the electric boats that can be taken out onto the water. Read more.

Attractions near Royan

The Wild Coast

The Côte Sauvage: Literally the ‘wild coast’, it’s a stunning stretch of sand and sand dunes facing directly onto the Atlantic. Extra care, though, has to be taken when bathing here as the winds, undercurrents and tides can make this area a particularly treacherous place to swim. The beaches are backed by cycle paths and it is also possible to go horse-riding. For details on bike rentals and stables, see the tourist office at Royan.

Seaside swimming pools

For those who like their taste of water to be a little more controlled, the Conche de Foncillon has a series of seaside swimming pools, where the water is kept at a balmy 28° C! See also the atmospheric villages such as La Temblade with their oyster nets and huts..

The Caves: Meschers-sur-Gironde and the Grottes de Régulus:

A hiding place since the Middle Ages, first for pirates and ship wreckers, then protestants during the Wars of Religion. Learn more.

Photo 1, Photo 3 and Photo 4 by VV-17 / CC BY 2.0 images cropped; Photo 2 by Herman Pijpers / CC BY 2.0 images cropped; Photo 5 by Fabien Artus / CC BY 2.0 images cropped