Bordeaux is filled with great things to see and do — historic monuments, fascinating museums, lovely gardens and lively markets…

Historic monuments

Cathedral Saint-André & Pey Berland Tower

Consecrated in 1096, this is the cathedral in which Eleanor of Aquitaine and Louis VII were married in 1137. It was added to in the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries. During the French Revolution it was used for storing animal fodder and was ravaged by fire in the 19th century, all the furniture replaced with pieces taken from other churches. See the sculptures of the Twelve Apostles on the 13th century entrance which is to the right of the north doorway.

The cathedral’s original 12th bell-tower was unable to support the weight of the tenor bell and so in 1440 it was decided to build a free-standing tower next to the cathedral. The Pey-Berland tower, as it is called, was one of the tallest buildings in Bordeaux but a storm in the 17th century destroyed the top and it was replaced with a cross. It wasn’t until 1853 that a huge tenor bell was attached. Weighing 11 tonnes, it is the fourth largest in France. If you have the stamina walk the 229 steps up a narrow spiral staircase – watch out for the low lintels – to the top for an outstanding view.

Address: Place Pey Berland
Visiting hours: The tower is open 2 January to 31 May: Open every day except Monday 10am-12.30pm / 2pm-5.30pm; 1st June to 30 September: Open every day 10am-1.15pm / 2pm-18pm; From 1st October to 31 December: Open every day except Monday 10am-12.30pm / 2pm-5.30pm; Closed on: January 1st, May 1st and December 25th (Last visit 30 minutes before closing).

Saint Michel Basilica

This basilica was a long time coming — work commenced in 1350 and took two centuries to finish. The pulpit represents Saint Michael slaying the dragon and along with the organ date from the 18th century. The original stain glass windows were destroyed during a bombardment in 1940; the modern windows are by the French master glass-maker Max Ingrand.

It is instantly recognisable for its hexagonal bell-tower, called La Flèche (arrow). The tower stands apart and was completed in the 15th century. At 114m high it is the second highest bell-tower in France. You can climb it to 47m for great views of Bordeaux and the river.

In 1881, when the cemetery was being moved, a large number of mummies were unearthed and 70 were exhibited to the general public in the circular crypt of the bell-tower – some were given names such as ‘Buried Alive’, ‘The Family Poisoned by Mushrooms’ and ‘The General Killed in a Duel.’ Thousands came to see them including major figures of the Romantic movement such as Victor Hugo and Gustave Flaubert. It was only in 1990 that the display was ended and the mummies moved to an ossuary in Chartreuse Cemetery (the city’s largest). Today you can see an audio-visual display on the exhibition in the crypt.

Address: Place Meynard

 

Grand Théâtre

The Grand Théâtre was designed by Victor Louis, also the architect of the sumptuous Comédie Française in Paris, and he planned it down to the finest detail, including in the plans not just the auditorium but also cafes and… gambling dens. Built between 1773 and 1780, during the reign of Louis XVI, it has a magnificent neo-classical facade with a portico of 12 Corinthian-style columns that support a decorated entablature on which are 12 statues representing the nine Muses and the goddesses Juno, Venus and Minerva.

One of the oldest wooden frame opera houses in Europe not to have been destroyed by fire or required rebuilding, nevertheless it was restored in 1991, the original 18th century blue and gold décor that had been ruined by oil lamps, once again gleaming. Inside the auditorium is a chandelier made with 14,000 Bohemian crystal drops.

On three occasions, the concert hall was commandeered to be the seat of the French parliament. In effect, Bordeaux was briefly the capital of France during the Franco-Prussian war in 1870, during the First World War in 1914, and during the Second World War in 1941.

Address: Place de la Comédie.
Now home of the Bordeaux Opera, you can see inside on a guided tour organised by the tourist office, or by attending a show. For information on what is showing and booking tickets see the Grand Théâtre website.

Monuments aux Girondins

This elaborate fountain was erected between 1894 and 1902, and honours the elected members of Bordeaux who were killed during the French Revolution. It is filled with symbolism: at the top of the central column is Liberty Breaking Her Chains; around are the vices such as Ignorance and Deceit, and virtues such as Labour and Happiness.

Much of the monument disappeared during World War II and it was thought that it had been melted down and the metal used for the making of weapons. However, it was later found in Angers, in central France; it returned to the square in 1986.

Address: Esplanade des Quinconces, Bordeaux Old Town.

Grosse Cloche

One of the city’s more famous landmarks is the 15th century Grosse Cloche (Great Bell) archway . It stands on what was the Saint-Éloi gateway, the 13th century entrance to the town, used by the pilgrims follows the route to Santiago de Compostela. The current bell dates from 1775, is two metres tall and wide and weighs 7,800 kilograms. It would toll to mark significant events such as the start of the grape harvest; today is tolls just once a year, on Armistice Day in November.

Other notable features are the gold-plated copper weathervane in the shape of a leopard, forged when Bordeaux was under English rule, and the clock, whose south face features a solar equation dial (the unit of solar time is a day which can vary in length).

Originally built in the 1750s, this model was designed by mathematician and astronomer Paul Larroque. The semi-circular dial indicates the difference in minutes between the apparent solar time as indicated by the shadow of a sun-dial and the mean solar time displayed on a watch. Beside it is Saint-Éloi church which was originally built in the 12th century. After many years of disuse it became a working church in 2007.

Address: Rue Saint James

 

Museums

There are a number of excellent museums in the city covering history and art as well as science.

Musée d’Aquitaine

Arguably the best of the Bordeaux museums – and the one to ‘do’ if you only have the time/inclination for just one. It covers history of the region taking you from prehistory through ancient Gaul and Rome. Read more. 

Musée des Beaux Arts

Recently re-opened after several years of renovation, its collections cover art from the 16th-20th centuries, showcasing work by some of Europe’s finest painters as well as local artists. Artists include Brueghel, Chardin, Corot, Pierre de Cortone, Delacroix, Van Dyck, Van Goyen, Kokoschka, Le Pérugin, Magnasco, Matisse, Picasso, Renoir, Rubens, Titian and Véronèse. Major Bordeaux artists include André Lhote, Albert Marquet, and Odilon Redon.

Address: 20 cours d’Albert
Visiting Hours: Open every day except Tuesdays and public holidays, 11am – 6pm.

Musée d’Art Contemporain

In a vast space of vaulted stone arches, this is the most modern of the Bordeaux museums. It has a permanent exhibition of about 1300 words by 190 artists and covers European and American modern art trends of the 1960s and 1970s including Land Art, Minimalism, Conceptual Art and Arte Povera . Those on display include Robert Combas, Annette Messager, Mario Merz and Richard Long. Read more.

 

Musée des Douanes

Situated in Hôtel des Fermes du Roi — Customs House — at Place de la Bourse, the building was built to house the Ferme Générale which collected taxes for the king. French Customs were located here for two centuries. This Bordeaux museum covers the history of French customs, from the 17th – 19th centuries, with displays showing uniforms, weapons, maps and documents. It also covers the work of modern customs officers including drug seizures and the arrest of counterfeiters, and items that have been confiscated are on display too.

Look out for the lovely original Claude Monet — ‘Cabane des douaniers, effet d’après-midi, (Customs Hut in the Afternoon) and a drawing by Salvador Dali.

There are printed guides in English as well as audio guides (extra cost). The guides are Customs Officers who speak English.

Address: 1 pls de la Bourse; open Tuesday to Sunday 10am – 6pm. It’s free on the first Sunday of the month.

Musée des Arts Decoratifs

Housed in Hôtel de Lalande, one of the city’s loveliest townhouses, the superb staircase, marble fireplaces, wood panelled rooms and parquet floors add to the experience at this museum that showcases decorative objects from porcelain to ironwork. Exhibits include the Jeanvrot Collection which show objects connected to the kings of France and 18th century decanters and flasks. A museum for fans of interior design and the decorative arts.

Address: 39 rue Bouffard
Visiting hours: Open every day except Tuesdays and public holidays, but open July 14 and August 15, from 2pm – 6pm. Free on the first Sunday of the month except in July and August.

Centre National Jean Moulin

Jean Moulin is one of France’s most celebrated Resistance heroes who worked against the Germans during World War II after a secret visit to General Charles de Gaulle in London. Betrayed, and captured by the Gestapo, he was tortured and died in 1943. This museum catalogues life in in Vichy France during the second world war with displays on the tools of the resistance fighter, from secret communications to the illegal radio transmitters. Those on everyday life include many photographs. On the second floor are displays on the Free French Forces including S’ils-te-Mordent (If they bite you), one of 15 small sailing boats that boat that linked the Brittany port of Carantec with England.

Address: Place Jean Moulin; open Tuesday to Sunday, 2pm – 6pm. Closed public holiday. Free entry.

Musée du Vin et du Negoce a Bordeaux

In the vaulted cellar of the former premises of the Irish wine merchants, Burke’s of Galway, this museum covers the wine-trade in Bordeaux and ends with a tasting session. English-speakers are given a folder containing explanations in English.

Address: 41 rue Borie.
Visiting hours: Every day from 10am – 6pm.

 

Cap Sciences

The region’s largest museum on science and industry, of the all the Bordeaux museums, it is the one that is most geared to children with workshops that enable 8 – 14 year olds to put on lab coats and become scientists for the day. Those aged 6 – 11 can put on their chef’s whites and get cooking. It houses one major exhibition each year – that for 2014 is on T-Rex with life-sized, animated dinosaurs.

Address: Hangar 20, quai de Bacalan.
Visiting hours: Open Tuesdays – Thursday, 2pm – 6pm; Fridays 2pm – 9pm; weekends 2pm – 7pm.

 

Bordeaux Gardens

Public Gardens

Designated a Jardin Remarquable de France (Remarkable Garden), Bordeaux’s public gardens were first created in 1746, and were originally a formal garden in typical 18th century French style. Commissioned by the Marquis de Tourny, one of the chief planners of the newly elegant city, marshland was transformed into a stately garden with three-lined avenues and flowerbeds. Initially known as the ‘Jardin Royal’, access was only granted to the city’s most highly regarded citizens. During the French Revolution, however, they were opened to the public and in the following century the formal style was replaced with the more informal British-style called a ‘jardin à l’anglaise’ .

Today the 11 hectares of lawn, centuries-old trees and flowers also includes a children’s playground and the famous Guignol Guérin puppet show. There is also a cafe. The Natural History Museum is also in the grounds.

Within the garden is one of Bordeaux’s two Botanical gardens – the other is on the right bank (see below). Starting as a collection of plants for medicinal and culinary purposes, the botanical garden opened here in 1856. Today there are about 3,000 types of plants from around the world, but this garden has been superseded by the newer gardens which opened in 2001. It is an attractive place through which to stroll but little information on the plants is provided.

Address: Place du Champ de Mars
Visiting hours: The gardens are open everyday from 7am; they usually close at sunset.

Jardin Botanique (Botanical Gardens)

On the right bank of Bordeaux, it is a splendid place from which to admire Old Bordeaux, but it’s also a lovely green oasis. Just 600 metres long, it is the work of landscape artist Catherine Mosbach and architect Françoise-Hélène Jourda. It is divided into a number of different types of gardens – the greenhouse is for Mediterranean plants (500 types can be found here); the ‘Vertical Garden’ showcases climbing plants; the ‘Gallery of Eco-Systems’ has re-created eleven natural landscapes of the Aquitaine Basin; there’s also an arboretum and a water garden that’s given over to aquatic plants.

Address: Enter the park from Quay des Queyries, Esplanade Linné, Jean Giono, allée Serr.
Visiting hours: Last weekend in March to the last weekend in October, every day 8am- 8pm. Last weekend in October to last weekend in March, every day 8am – 6pm. Glass house and exhibitions, 11am – 6pm everyday except Mondays and public holidays. Entry is free.

 

Markets

Marché des Capucins

Nicknamed the ‘stomach of Bordeaux’, this bustling covered market is Bordeaux’s main market and is packed full of stalls selling a fabulous variety of fresh food – vegetables, fruit, meat, fish, cheese.. There are a few eating places within the market where you can stop for lunch – tuck into oysters, tapas… – or stock up for a picnic.

Where: Place des Capucins
When: Tuesday to Sunday mornings from 6am to 1pm

Marché des Quais

On the riverfront in Les Chartrons district, this Sunday morning has become one of the city’s most popular. Not just fruit, vegetables and meat, but also great breads, cheeses, jams, honeys, saucissons and cooked snacks such as empanadas. Oysters are a big feature – stop at an oyster bar and enjoy half a dozen with a glass of chilled white.

Where: Quai des Chartrons
When: Sunday mornings from 7am to 1pm for food and from 7am to 3pm for arts and crafts, flowers etc.

Marché Royal (St-Michel)

Every Saturday morning, a lively food market that’s a mix of traditional and immigrant French produce.

Where: Place Canteloup et Meynard
When: Sunday morning from 7am to 1pm.

Marché Brocante (St-Michel)

A small bric-a-brac and antiques market with about 20 sellers. However, on the second Sunday of March, June, September and December, this grows to a huge brocante with about 90 sellers there from 6am – 4pm.

Where: Place Canteloup et Meynard

When: Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays,  from 7am to 2pm

Learn more about Bordeaux here.

 

Photos by juseliushausammann.com