Come to Les Sables d’Olonne and learn how to sail, surf, windsurf, wave ski, kayak and more.

Les Sables d’Olonne is best known for its beach – La Grand Plage – that is situated on a south-facing, crescent-shaped bay that gives shelter from the pounding Atlantic waves. However, like many of the seaside towns along the French Atlantic coast, its golden sands are accompanied by a lovely mix of old and new architecture, pedestrianised streets, boutiques and markets that together create a lovely laid-back holiday mood.

It is also a centre for water sports, in particular sailing: the famous round-the-world non-stop solo yacht race, called The Vendée Globe, leaves from the town’s Port Olona which offers 1500 berths to visiting yachts.

History

This town in the area known as the Vendée is perfect for walking around with charming historic areas, such as La Chaume with its fishermen’s houses, that give a glimpse to times past. Les Sables d’Olonne dates backs to the 13th century when Prince Savary de Mauleon granted the rights to a settlement here in order to create a harbour to replace the one at Talmont further south, which was silting up. Two centuries later, King Louis XI annexed the existing town to create Les Sables d’Olonne which became the region’s main harbour and port – by the 18th century it was France’s largest port for cod. One hundred years later, after some decades in decline, it also became a centre for sardines and tuna, and fishing continues to play an important role in the town.

The building of the first thermal bath in 1825 heralded a golden age at Les Sables d’Olonne. It became the chic resort for the artistic elite and aristocracy – the beautiful Belle Epoque villas of Le Remblai, the promenade that flanks La Grand Plage (main beach), date back to this time, as does the Casino des Atlantes (then known as the Casino des Bains de Mer). The railway arrived at Les Sables d’Olonne 40 years later, bringing Parisians ‘to the finest beach in Europe’.

Today, Les Sables d’Olonne is still one of the best beaches in France, attracting those wanting to enjoy the sun and the sea. Le Remblai underwent a five year renovation which finished in 2013 – and now boasts a wide pedestrianised section, making it more enjoyable to walk or cycle by its beach which is as glorious today as it was in yesteryear.

The Vendée Globe Challenge

Held every four years, The Vendée Globe is a single-handed, non-stop, round-the-world sailing race – Ellen MacArthur, winner in 2000/01 is one of its most famous modern competitors. Tough, immensely challenging and risky, it is known as ‘the Everest of the Seas’. The race begins and ends at Port Olona with boats setting off in early November; in the weeks beforehand it is possible to see the boats that are in competition. The race takes about three months and from February, as the boats arrive, crowds gather to greet them. The next race is in 2020.

What to See and Do

Take to the beach:

La Grand Plage is the main beach at Les Sables d’Olonne, and one of the safest in the Vendée – making it very family-friendly. In a sheltered bay that’s protected from the prevailing winds and ocean currents by the harbour wall and breakwater, it is three kilometres long and pleasantly wide. In the high season there are children’s clubs and at Point Animation Plage, in the middle of the beach, sporting activities. There are lifeguards and first aid stations. Nearby are many cafes and restaurants. No dogs allowed.

Disabled access: three beach wheelchairs are available free-of-charge to take those unable to walk to the sea to bathe. July and August: every afternoon between 1.30pm-6pm; May, June and September: 2pm-4pm every day bar Wednesdays and Fridays. Find them at the beach access ramp by the pool at the northern end of the beach. Telephone: +33 6 60 30 19 25.

There are another seven beaches nearby, some perfect for getting away from the holiday crowds.

Les President’s beach: heading south, towards La Tanchet, a short stretch of beach. Still close to the main beach and town, there are plenty of cafes and restaurants nearby, as well as a children’s club.

La Tanchet: between Les Sables d’Olonne and Château d’Olonne, it is unprotected by the breakwater so here the Atlantic is in full swell. Not surprisingly, it is a favourite amongst surfers and in the summer months can get very busy. Note at high tide, the water rises quite far up the beach, leaving only a little sand on which to lay your towel. No dogs allowed.

La Paracou: a small beach, popular with fishermen, to the north of La Chaume district, on the Côte Sauvage and close to the dunes and the forest. It does have lifeguards during the summer months. Get there by bicycle or car via Route du Bargeouti; there is a car park. No dogs allowed.

L’Aubraie beach: just north of La Chaume, it is considered one of the best surfing beaches in the Vendée. Parking available close to the beach.
Sauverre: forest gives way to sand dune and then beach, and this long stretch of sand is popular with surfers and sun loungers alike. Right below the car park are the stones, Les Pierres Noires, but beyond them on either side are long stretches of beach. The area to the north has lifeguards and some facilities. Dogs on a lead allowed.

Les Granges: for a quiet spot, even at the height of the season head to Les Granges. Situated to the north of Sauveterre, at the northernmost point of the Forest d’Olonne and on the other side of the Havre de la Gachère channel, it also boasts a long stretch of sand. Expect to see beach fishermen as well as surfers although only those in the know tend to come here. Car parking is easy to come by and dogs on a lead are permitted.

Naturist beach: if you like to soak up the sun wearing nothing but sunscreen, the section of beach between Sauveterre and Les Granges is an official naturist beach. Reach it by following the signs to the beach; once there it is signposted – lookout for ‘plage naturiste’. It has no lifeguards or toilets, but a couple of bars and parking nearby.

Go to a seawater swimming pool

Le Remblai on the seafront, this seawater pool – La Piscine d’eau de mer du Remblai – is heated to 29°C. Twenty-five metres long, it also has a bar and terrace with a sea view. It’s open all year round but times vary. During July – August: 10am – 8pm. Promenade Lafargue; Tel: +33 2 51 23 53 00.

Bassin Dombret: a seawater pool with lifeguards in the high season on the Côte Sauvage in the historic Chaume district. Reach it via the Corniche du Nouch, a two-kilometre long stretch following the rocky coastline with walks, cycle paths and a road.

Walk the town

Les Sables d’Olonne is best known as a beach resort but it’s also enjoyable to walk around. There are two particularly attractive areas to explore – the streets that back onto the beach, and La Chaume, a former fishing village that’s on the other side of a narrow channel to the main part of town.

Le quartier de passage: from the quayside towards the town centre and beach, stroll the narrow winding streets that are flanked by typical fishermen’s houses, as well as the more elegant homes of the wealthier ship-owners, the houses dating back to when Les Sables d’Olonne was the leading cod-fishing harbour in France.

On Rue des Halles you will find Halles Centrale, a pretty glass and brick built building that houses the regular market. Built over what was once an old cemetery and replacing the former market, it was first constructed in 1890 by a local architect. Stop by on market day (Wednesdays and Saturdays from 8am – 1pm; daily at the same times from June 15 – end of September) and shop for fresh produce both from the sea and the land.

Not far away, to the south of the market, is Rue de L’Enfer, said to be the narrowest street in France – at its narrowest point it is just 40cm wide. Breathe in…

Île Pénotte: this small area between the port and the beach – rue Travot, rue d’Assas, rue Trompeuse, rue des Corderies and rue des Bains – is now known for the pretty, and often quirky, shell murals created by resident Daniele Arnaud-Aubin since 1997. Made from mussel, scallop, cockle and limpet shells, the vast range of designs range from small to large-scale with themes including Greek myths (Neptune, Hydra), scenes from local life and the sea.

La Chaume: a former fishing village is on the other side of the channel to the main resort. Get there by taking the ferry from Quai Guiné; if driving, take the boulevard north of Port Olona. The streets here are of lime-washed cottages that once belonged to fishermen and sailors. Here you will find Prieure-St-Nicolas, a restored Romanesque church turned arms store in the 17th century, that stands guard over the entrance to the harbour channel. During the summer, there are concerts and exhibitions. Check out Place Sainte Anne where close to Saint-Nicolas church, the walls have been painted to create a trompe l’oeil mural that represents life in the area in the 1970s.

Port Olona: the La Chaume district leads to to Port Olona where there are many bars and restaurants, and with moorings for 1500 yachts it’s always a lively place – even more so during the Vendee Globe.

* There are regular guided tours of the town in French and you can get details of these at tourist offices. During the summer, usually mid-July to mid-August, there is a one hour tour of the harbour and old town in English. Ask at Les Sables d’Olonne’s main tourist office at 1 promenade Joffre.

Take in a museum

Chateau St Clair Musée de la Mer et de la Peche: as the name suggests, this museum is all about the sea and fishing. Housed in the Château St-Clair, the ground floor of the museum is devoted to maritime history while the upper floor is about the town’s past fishing industry. See scale-models of boats, old documents, navigational equipment and other objects, and there are brief explanations in English.

Musée de l’Abbaye Ste-Croix: housed in one wing of a 17th-century former Benedictine convent, this is predominantly a modern art gallery. It puts on temporary exhibitions, but in its permanent collection are a number of paintings and collages by Gaston Chaissac.

Museum du Coquillage: a museum devoted to shells with more than 50,000 of them, in all colours, shapes and sizes, on display in glass cases. The shells range from those commonly seen on European shores to those found in the South Pacific. 8 rue du Maréchal Leclerc; Tel: +33 2 51 23 50 00. Open all year; see here for times and tariffs.

Musée des Traditions Populaires: a few kilometres away in Olonne-sur-Mer, is this museum. In five rooms of a 19th century former schoolhouse are exhibits showing life in the area at the turn of the 20th century with a mix of room sets and objects from the time such as clothing including the local head-dresses (called coiffes), household items, and woodwork and agricultural tools. 30 rue du Maréchal Foch; Tel: +33 2 51 96 95 53. It’s open all year round, but times vary.

Musée de la Petite Gare: this museum is in a former fire station in nearby Ile d’Olonne, looks into the past, exploring two of the area’s industries – salt and wine (Learn about wine from the Vendée here). Exhibits include agricultural equipment, tools and photographs. Whilst there do climb the tower of the Ile d’Olonne church for a great view of the surrounding area. It is a working clock so mind the bell! Chemin de la Ceinture, Ile d’Olonne; Tel: +33 2 51 33 11 72; open Tuesdays and Thursdays in July & August.

Rose garden: head to the village of Olonne sur Mer to see this rose garden with its 1220 rosebushes and 134 varieties. There are also many more plants to see including dahlias, canna lilies and bedding plants in 8000m² of landscaped surroundings. 89 Avenue de Charles de Gaulle, Olonne sur Mer; Tel: +33 (0)2 51 23 16 43. Open 2 – 6pm every day bar Sunday and public holidays from June – September.

Things to Do Around Les Sables d’Olonne

Visit the salt marshes

Although, the salt of Guérlande to the north is more renowned in culinary circles, there was still a large salt industry in this area thanks to the need for salt to preserve foodstuffs, in particular the fish which were caught in large numbers. Today you can visit the salt marshes, some of which are still working. Learn more here.

See the rocky cliffs

Puits d’Enfer: to the south of Les Sables d’Olonne the sandy beach gives way to rocky cliffs and it’s here you’ll find this deep cleft in the rock where at high tide the sea roaring in drives the spray high into the air – do not stand too close to the edge, especially when windy. Back in 1949, the blood soaked trunk was found at the bottom of the cliff. Inside was the body of an elderly Parisian man; it was later discovered that he had been murdered by his housekeeper. 3 km south of Le Château d’Olonne, off the D32B.

Check out the animal life

Zoo des Sables: a small zoo just by the River Tanchet at the southern end of Le Remblai. Learn more.

Bird observatory: even if you’re not a twitcher this bird-watching post is worth a stop. Overlooking the now abandoned salt marshes that are home to France’s second-largest colony of avocets. The marshes are also one of the richest areas of the Vendée for migratory birds and 180 species have been seen including spoonbills, curlews and stilts. Migratory birds come through in March/April and August/September. It’s open all year and and at certain times an ornithologist is on hand, but best to take your own binoculars and bird-book so you can figure out what you’re seeing. There is a small fee. Lieu-dit l’Ileau, off the D38, near Île-d’Olonne; Tel: +33 2 51 33 12 97

Water sports; learn how to surf, windsurf, sail, hire sea kayaks and more.

If you love the water, there’s plenty to enjoy. Take a guided boat trip or hire your own. Learn to sail yachts and dinghies, as well as how to surf, windsurf and ride a catamaran. Take a sea kayak trip or zip along the water on a sea scooter. Have fun on banana and rubber rings. You don’t have to bring your own – you can hire surfboards, bodyboards, wave skis, sea kayaks, canoes, windsurfing boards and paddle boards.

Photo 1 by SDUBROCA / CC BY 2.0 image cropped; Photo 2 by PROjpra; Photo 3 and Photo 4 by Marc Lagneau / CC BY 2.0 images cropped